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Yearly Archives: 2018 − Travelblog


Pata­go­nia under sail 2018: triplog and fotos

Fol­lowing to the triplog and pho­tos of our Ant­arc­tic expe­di­ti­on with SY Anne-Mar­ga­re­tha in ear­ly 2018, we have now got the Pata­go­nia triplog with asso­cia­ted pho­to collec­tions and some short sto­ry­tel­ling online. With the log, sto­ries and pho­tos, you can join us retro­spec­tively at no cost and enjoy Patagonia’s won­der­ful­ly wild land­s­capes and water­ways with no “risk” of wind and waves, sea­sick­ness and cold – have fun!

Patagonia 2018, SY Anne-Margaretha and Rolf Stange: triplog, stories, photos

Hiking on one of Patagonia’s many remo­te islands.

And yes, we are fair­ly con­fi­dent that this Pata­go­nia adven­ture was not the last one of its kind, the­re is still so much to dis­co­ver! We have no dates fixed yet, and it won’t hap­pen as ear­ly as the next aus­tral sea­son (2018/19), but we’ll return to Pata­go­nia, no doubt!

Gol­fo Cor­co­va­do to Puer­to Montt

Admit­ted­ly, the final leg of our voya­ge was not what we had been hoping for. We had pic­tu­red some beau­ti­ful sai­ling in sub­tro­pi­cal­ly calm waters and a nice final stop on the island of Chi­loë. Ins­tead, we got one last bea­ting by the wea­ther. Winds around 30 knots (40 in gusts) and strai­ght on the nose, of cour­se. The Gol­fo de Cor­co­va­do did not give us wha­les and views of vol­ca­noes, but mari­ti­me Rock’n’roll in shape of some rough seas, a lot of rain and speed that went down to 1.8 knots at time. Not qui­te what we wan­ted. (Adden­dum: in Puer­to Montt, the crew found parts of ropes and fishing nets on the pro­pellor. That exp­lains of cour­se why we made so poor speed when the wind was against us!)

Things impro­ved signi­fi­cant­ly during the last morning: the wind chan­ged direc­tion and thus its cha­rac­ter from a pain in the rear to the sai­ling wind that we had been hoping for. The sea cal­med down, and we picked up speed to make 7-8 knots bet­ween Chi­loë and some smal­ler islands towards Puer­to Montt. After the wild, lonely land­s­capes fur­ther south, it see­med pret­ty civi­li­sed around here: many smal­ler and some lar­ger sett­le­ments on the islands and more ships than we had seen befo­re in many days. Pen­gu­ins, peli­cans and sea lions were with us on the last miles.

We went along­side in Puer­to Montt only a few hours behind sche­du­le, and a real­ly gre­at, beau­ti­ful and inte­res­ting voya­ge came to an end, which was duly cele­bra­ted with fresh apple cake made by Julie. I am pret­ty sure that I speak for ever­y­bo­dy when I say that we would have loved to con­ti­nue tog­e­ther. The­re are so many more Cale­tas in Pata­go­nia …

But as it was, we said good­bye and fare­well. Many big thanks to all fel­low tra­vel­lers, to skipper/boat owner Heinz Wutsch­ke and his good crew, Astrid, Julie and Piet for many stun­ning days on the back side of Pata­go­nia!

Gal­le­ry – Gol­fo Cor­co­va­do to Puer­to Montt

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

No doubt, this is to be con­ti­nued. In 2019, we have alrea­dy got Scores­by­sund in east Green­land with Anne-Mar­ga­re­tha on the sche­du­le. The­re has alrea­dy been tal­king about other parts of east Green­land or Lofo­ten for the future, and I am sure this is not to be the last time in Pata­go­nia! It was far too beau­ti­ful for that, and the­re are so many more pla­ces to dis­co­ver in this stun­ning part of the glo­be.

So this is the end of my polar blog for the moment. The aut­hor will con­ti­nue his arc­tic adven­tures for a cou­p­le of weeks in the book wri­ting fac­to­ry (yes, the­re are pro­jects going on). Thanks for rea­ding so far, and see you again when the arc­tic sea­son starts with Anti­gua!

Canal Mora­le­do & Isla Canal

As if a sun­set on a calm fjord bet­ween many islands was not alrea­dy a show of per­fect beau­ty. How does it get even more beau­ti­ful? Dol­phins.

On Isla Canal, we inven­ted the term „three-dimen­sio­nal hiking“ becau­se we were moving in the den­se forest somehow in a dif­fu­se matrix of bran­ches, bam­boo, rot­ten roots and sur­pri­sin­gly lar­ge cavi­ties bet­ween them. A very gra­du­al tran­si­ti­on from the most­ly air-fil­led space at the top and the more or less solid bot­tom. Often less solid.

Good fun!

Gal­le­ry – Canal Mora­le­do & Isla Canal – 01/02 April 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Accord­ing to the wea­ther fore­cast, we should now have had lovely sai­ling wind from the south. In rea­li­ty, we are cros­sing up north against the wind and some rather rough seas. Still 180 nau­ti­cal miles to go to Puer­to Montt. We will see.

Seno Aysén – 01 April 2018

Hap­py Eas­ter! The anchor went down late night. Which was gre­at, we had been sai­ling for qui­te some time sin­ce we had left our ancho­ra­ge at the Isla Jung­frau­en. And it was good to get to walk again on solid ground! Natu­re has almost got a tro­pi­cal aspect, it is so green and lush, big fern trees are gro­wing ever­y­whe­re like palm trees, and par­rots are making a lot of noi­se.

Seno Aysén - 01 April 2018

Our own Eas­ter bak­e­ry at work

A second lan­ding takes us to some hot springs, the Ter­mas de Pun­ta Perez. It used to be an unknown place in the wil­der­ness until a few years ago, now tou­rism has left obvious traces. We are obvious­ly get­ting into more civi­li­zed waters again, Puer­to Aysén is not too far away and tou­rist boats and fishing ves­sels are crow­ding the waters.

Caleta Gato - Seno Aysén - 01 April 2018

The forest in Seno Aysén loo­ks almost tro­pi­cal

The hot springs do not form natu­ral hot pools. It is hot ground­wa­ter com­ing out bet­ween the stones, so you can burn your bum as you sit in shal­low water while your feet get fro­zen at the same time. It is not real­ly that tro­pi­cal yet!

Termas de Punta Perez - Seno Aysén - 01 April 2018

Real­ly hot Hot Springs

Gal­le­ry – Seno Aysén – 01 April 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Archi­pe­la­go de los Cho­nos – 31 March 2018

Good to be in shel­te­red coas­tal waters again! The surf on the outer coast was very impres­si­ve, not a good place to run aground, as count­less ships did trough the cen­tu­ries. We had our bea­rings right and ent­e­red Bahía Anna Pink (one of tho­se lovely pla­ce­n­a­mes again), the ent­ran­ce to a sys­tem of chan­nels through the Archi­pe­la­go de los Cho­nos. The sea got com­ple­te­ly calm during the morning, the water was like a mir­ror again mid-day.

Canal Pulluche - Archipelago de los Chonos - 31 March 2018

Green trees covering the moun­tains in the Archi­pe­la­go de los Cho­nos

The sun was shi­ning warm­ly and T-shirts and shorts were seen on the sun deck. May­be it was just the impres­si­on under the coin­ci­dence of today’s wea­ther, but ever­ything seems to be mil­der than south of the Gol­fo de Penas: the air is warm, the forests are covering the hills up to hig­her alti­tu­des, the land appears green, lush and mild. Nevertheless, pen­gu­ins are swim­ming around in con­si­derable num­bers and fur­ther inland, the­re is one of the big­gest non-polar ice-caps of the Earth. May­be it is real­ly just the wea­ther of today …

Canal Chacabuco - Archipelago de los Chonos - 31 March 2018

Sun­rays hit the water, Canal Cha­ca­bu­co

Canal Errazuriz - Archipelago de los Chonos - 31 March 2018

Sai­ling in the late evening and during the night, across calm waters and in moon­light, is very atmo­s­phe­ric!

Gal­le­ry – Archi­pe­la­go de los Cho­nos – 31 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Pen­in­su­la de Tai­tao – 30 March 2018

After the sun­ny hikes on the Isla Jung­frau­en, we had to wait out yet ano­t­her day while the storm was raging out the­re on open sea.

It was pou­ring rain for most of the day, so the on-board cine­ma was by far the best thing to do.

Peninsula de Taitao - 30 March 2018

Wind, waves and Alba­tros­ses: sai­ling at open sea around the Pen­in­su­la de Tai­tao.

Yes­ter­day, we could final­ly set sail again. We have to get this next leg done, across the Gol­fo de Penas and around the Pen­in­su­la de Ta Ito. We still have 500 nau­ti­cal miles ahead of us to Puer­to Montt, and the days are going quick­ly.

Peninsula de Taitao - 30 March 2018

Alba­tros­ses have an enor­mous wing­s­pan of more than three meters!

The open sea is always some­thing peop­le see with mixed fee­lings: some have to retre­at to their cabins while others are enjoy­ing wind and waves. Repre­sen­ta­ti­ves of both groups are pre­sent on board. But the sailors and pho­to­graph­ers amongst us had a lot to enjoy! We made good speed with up to more than 8 knots, wind and waves in con­stant­ly chan­ging light con­di­ti­ons and many, many sea­b­irds. From the small petrels to the Grea Alba­tros­ses (Wan­de­ring, Nort­hern and Sou­thern Roy­al Alba­tross) and a lot in bet­ween.

Gal­le­ry – Pen­in­su­la de Tai­tao – 30 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Isla Jung­frau­en – 28/29 March 2018

We have got the Gol­fo de Penas ahead of us and thus an open sea pas­sa­ge which will take about one and a half days without the pro­tec­tion of the coas­tal waters that we have enjoy­ed so far. It is obvious­ly important to have a good wea­ther win­dow for that, which we were sup­po­sed to have now, but rea­li­ty was dif­fe­rent. The wind and sea were qui­te rough alrea­dy in the chan­nels, and the latest fore­cast spo­ke a qui­te dif­fe­rent but very clear lan­guage.

Isla Jungfrauen

Wai­t­ing for the wind to calm down, Isla Jung­frau­en

So the­re is not much to do but to wait for bet­ter times regar­ding the open sea pas­sa­ge. Some­thing that is gre­at at the time being (later, we will have to catch up again, though), as we have got the Isla Jung­frau­en near­by, which has the beau­ti­ful Cale­ta Vir­gin. The name of the island („Island of vir­gins“) is inte­res­ting, but it does not keep the pro­mi­se, as we have found out by now. But the island has got the beau­ti­ful Cale­ta Vir­gen, which tur­ned out to be a gre­at place to stay safe­ly with a ship and bey­ond that, it is a gre­at place for hiking! Once you have got bey­ond the usu­al few metres of den­se coas­tal forest, the land­s­cape opens up and offers many gre­at hiking oppor­tu­nities over hills and smal­ler moun­tains with stun­ning pan­or­amic views, some lakes, wind-bea­ten trees and a lot of ama­zing pla­ces to dis­co­ver. An unbe­liev­a­b­ly beau­ti­ful hid­den cor­ner of the pla­net! We were all a bit tired after the last night, but that was quick­ly for­got­ten in the beau­ty of the sce­ne­ry. And in here, the wea­ther is gre­at! The Cale­ta is well shel­te­red, so hard­ly noti­ce anything of the strong winds and hea­vy seas out­side (on the moun­tains, you can hard­ly stand at times) and the sun is with us most of the day. Lovely!

Gal­le­ry – Isla Jung­frau­en – 28/29 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

As men­tio­ned, we will have to catch up again time-wise, the days are going and they are not com­ing back. But we could not have found a bet­ter place to wait for bet­ter con­di­ti­ons, and when you see the pho­tos, I guess you don’t belie­ve that we are stuck here for wea­ther rea­sons.

 Isla Jungfrauen

What you can’t see in this pic­tu­re: Due to strong winds you can hard­ly stand on some of the hig­her spots.

Isla Jungfrauen

There’s defi­ni­te­ly no bet­ter place for a day of wai­t­ing.

Puer­to Edén – 27 March 2018

Sud­den­ly the wea­ther is on our side again and Cale­ta Coli­bri lets us go. The advan­ta­ge of the quick wea­ther chan­ges is that the wea­ther chan­ges quick­ly.

After a night and many miles we reach Puer­to Edén, which real­ly loo­ks like a bit of a gar­den Eden on a day like this, under a blue sky and with mir­ror images on the water. We haven’t had too many days like this!

Puerto Edén

Simp­le but colour­ful huts in Puer­to Edén

Puer­to Edén is a small vil­la­ge with a few hund­red inha­bi­tants, most of them descen­dants of the indi­ge­ne­ous popu­la­ti­on of this area. The usu­al, tra­gic histo­ry of colo­ni­al mur­der and dise­a­ses has not left many of them ali­ve, and prac­ti­cal­ly not­hing of their cul­tu­re. Ins­tead, the­re is Puer­to Edén, which star­ted its exi­s­tance as a small air­for­ce base and still has a mili­ta­ry pre­sence. Bey­ond that, it has a num­ber of simp­le but colour­ful huts near the shore, which loo­ks beau­ti­ful. It is lovely to walk around and enjoy all the views and colours and the wea­ther which feels real­ly medi­ter­ra­ne­an on a rare day like this. Unfor­tu­n­at­ly, my Colo­bri pho­to from yes­ter­day (or the day befo­re? Time is fly­ing, it is ama­zing!) has lost a lot of value as a rari­ty today, as the­re are a lot of Coli­bris around here and the dedi­ca­ted pho­to­graph­ers got rewar­ded for their pati­ence.

Gal­le­ry – Puer­to Edén – 27 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

The­re are even two shops, but both of them fit into a small room. But the­re are fisher­men who come direct­ly to the boat to offer their fresh catch. Deli­cious!

In the after­noon and during the night, we make sure that we get fur­ther north. We have to, the­re are still many miles to go and the wea­ther is per­fect and of rare beau­ty.

Cale­ta Coli­bri – 25 March 2018

Cale­ta Coli­bri is not a place for long hikes. The forest is so den­se that it is sim­ply impos­si­ble to get any­whe­re. I have tried it. It does not work.

But the­re are several inte­res­ting pla­ces. In one place, peop­le obvious­ly spent a lot of time eating mus­sels. The­re is a big pile of them. Who and when? That’s some­thing we’d also love to know.

A pile of mussels on the beach of Caleta Colibri

Whe­re do all the­se mus­sels come from? Unsol­ved ques­ti­ons in the Cale­ta Coli­bri

You can climb up a tree and it does hard­ly look dif­fe­rent from stan­ding on the ground. Many of them are so den­se­ly cove­r­ed with mos­ses and all sorts of plants that it loo­ks like the ground. It is all green, ever­y­whe­re.

And, yes, Cale­ta Coli­bri lived up to its name! A small group of dedi­ca­ted pho­to­graph­ers wai­ted pati­ent­ly to get a chan­ce, and we were rewar­ded. I would guess it was a Green-backed fire­crown (Sepha­no­i­des sepha­no­i­des), accord­ing to our book „Bird of Chi­le“.

Gal­le­ry – Cale­ta Coli­bri – 25 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Now the wind has to calm down a bit so we can con­ti­nue towards Puer­to Edén. That is the next place we are hea­ding for and the first place sin­ce Puer­to Wil­liams whe­re peop­le are living. We have to go shop­ping, we are run­ning out of cho­co­la­te and beer.

Hummingbird in the Caleta Colibri

Nomen est omen: Cale­ta Coli­bri

Canal Tres Cor­res – 25 March 2018

After a real Sunday morning bre­ak­fast (scram­bled eggs and fresh rolls!) it was time to move nor­thwards again. Wind and rain in Canal Pitt, stun­ning light later, sun and blue sky alter­na­ting with some light clouds.

The wind is sup­po­sed to pick up again stron­gly tonight, so we deci­de to hide in Cale­ta Coli­bri. A lovely place for a calm night. And may­be the name keeps the pro­mi­se ..?

Canal Tres Corres

A lovely bay with a pro­mi­sing name: Cale­ta Coli­bri, Canal Tres Cor­res

Gal­le­ry – Canal Tres Cor­res – 25 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca – 24 March 2018

After a long day out and a fore­cast with a lot of wind for the night, what we nee­ded was a good Cale­ta to pro­vi­de a shel­te­red ancho­ra­ge for a night.

Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca can be recom­men­ded for that pur­po­se. It starts a bit like Decep­ti­on Island: you approach a steep coast, a nar­row ent­ran­ce with rocks in the water, steep cliffs on both sides (a bit gree­ner here than on Decep­ti­on Island), ever­y­bo­dy starts pla­cing bets if the ship will actual­ly fit through it – of cour­se, it works, the skip­per knows what he is doing. Then, a lovely bay opens, a real pira­te hidea­way. A lovely place to make a ship storm­pro­of for the night.

Caleta Villarica

Will it fit? It will! Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca

Wal­king in the­se forests is not for the faint-hear­ted. We could have used a chain­saw, ropes and a lad­der for that litt­le walk which in open ter­rain would have taken may­be 10 minu­tes. India­na Jones would have been ama­zed by the den­si­ty of this rain forest.

As always, the view was worth it!

Dense forest in the Caleta Villarica

India­na Jones would have enjoy­ed this: Den­se forest in the Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca

The bay of Caleta Villarica

The ama­zing view over Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca was worth the strugg­le through the bush

Gal­le­ry – Cale­ta Vil­la­ri­ca – 24 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Ama­lia Gla­cier – 24 March 2018

Puer­to Bue­no lived up to its name and gave us a beau­ti­ful and calm night. Very plea­sant. Which was fol­lo­wed by a stun­ning sun­ri­se and a new wea­ther fore­cast, which gave us some more time befo­re the next peri­od of strong wind is sup­po­sed to come. So we could set cour­se for the Ama­lia Gla­cier, which was gre­at, becau­se we had all been loo­king for­ward to it. We went under sail and sunshi­ne with the view of the Cam­po de hie­lo, the inland ice of Pata­go­nia, in the distance. Gre­at sai­ling.

Sunrise in the

Sun­ri­se in the “Good Har­bour”, Puer­to Bue­no

We were fol­lo­wed by dol­phins on the last miles to the famous Ama­lia Gla­cier, a stun­ning blue ice cliff lea­ding up the the snow- and ice-cove­r­ed moun­tains in the area of the inland ice. Again, we were lucky with the wea­ther and had gre­at views; often the who­le moun­tain sce­ne­ry is hid­den low clouds. Ano­t­her gre­at day!

So, tonight it is sup­po­sed to be win­dy. We have set cour­se for a small bay whe­re the wind should not bother us too much. All the­se gre­at ancho­ra­ges here in coas­tal Pata­go­nia are real­ly a tre­a­su­re. A gre­at con­ve­ni­en­ce and always a sce­nic plea­su­re.

Amalia Glacier

The cliffs of the Ama­lia gla­cier

Gal­le­ry – Ama­lia Gla­cier – 24 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Canal Sar­mi­en­to – 23 March 2018

The wind should have cal­med down over night, and so it did inde­ed. Not that it was real­ly comfy, stan­ding out­side and stee­ring the ship. Still 30 knots of wind on the nose of ship and helms­man, plus a bit of rain and the occa­sio­nal bit of hail. Pata­go­nia.

But then came dif­fe­rent times! Blue ski­es and sun! We fol­lo­wed various water­ways for many miles to the north, enjoy­ing wea­ther and sce­ne­ry on deck. Paso Vic­to­ria, the long Canal Sar­mi­en­to and other big, beau­ti­ful chan­nels most peop­le will hard­ly ever have heard of.

Canal Sarmiento

Blue Sky over Canal Sar­mi­en­to

Bro­ken land. Many the­se chan­nels are drawn like with a ruler, a strai­ght line. They fol­low huge faults, that is geo­lo­gi­cal cracks, in geo­metri­cal pat­terns; sets of fault lines fol­low cer­tain direc­tions and then the­re are several of the­se main direc­tions. Altog­e­ther forming pat­terns that you can clear­ly see on the hills­i­des and on the map. The vege­ta­ti­on is a bit more spar­se here, espe­cial­ly on some light-grey moun­tains with roun­ded tops, which appe­ar to con­sist of gra­ni­te or some simi­lar crystal­li­ne rock.

The latest wea­ther fore­cast cau­ses mixed thoughts regar­ding tomor­row. Our plan is to visit the famous Ama­lia gla­cier, which is said to be beau­ti­ful. But the new fore­cast pro­mi­ses a lot of wind alrea­dy tomor­row. We will have to see how that all fits tog­e­ther. We will see. In the end, natu­re rules.

For the moment, we deci­de to drop the anchor in a litt­le, silent bay cal­led „Puer­to Bue­no“, hoping that the name does not pro­mi­se too much.

Gal­le­ry – Canal Sar­mi­en­to – 23 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Pen­in­su­la Zach – 22 March 2018

After several hours sai­ling nor­thwards in Canal Smyth, the wind picked up bey­ond 50 knots, strai­ght on the nose, of cour­se. After criss-cros­sing a few miles and gai­ning not­hing but cha­os on the gal­ley, we gave up and went rather into a lovely bay to anchor. A small pod of dol­phins (Dus­ky, pro­bab­ly) accom­pa­nied us on the way into the bay, and once the­re, we were wel­co­med by a curious Mari­ne otter. A very friend­ly place!

Marine otter, Peninsula Zach

A Mari­ne otter wel­co­mes us near the Pen­in­su­la Zach

And it did pro­vi­de the shel­ter that we wan­ted. Calm waters and no wind, except from some occa­sio­nal gus­ting. We wai­ted for a strong rain sho­wer to pass through and then we went out to explo­re the area a bit. The name is pro­mi­sing: Pen­in­su­la Zach is named after Wolf­gang Zach, the mas­ter car­pen­ter in Lon­gye­ar­by­en who is buil­ding tho­se gre­at pic­tu­re frames from Spits­ber­gen drift­wood of which we had a few on offer last year (and we will have some more again later this year … ) so, a pro­mi­sing place! We were curious what Pen­in­su­la Zach would have to offer, but it had to be good any­way.

We were not to be disap­poin­ted. Pen­in­su­la Zach is almost an island. Our anchor bay is sepa­ra­ted from the bay on the other side by just 200 meters of dry land (it was actual­ly pret­ty wet). It is a walk of ten minu­tes befo­re you reach a litt­le hill from which you have a view towards a bay in two oppo­si­te direc­tions. The remai­ning direc­tions are occup­pied by moun­tains. A stun­ning pan­ora­ma!

View from the Peninsula Zach

The pan­ora­ma over the Pen­in­su­la Zach was worth the short but wet walk

The coas­tal low­lands were lovely with its low forest – less den­se than else­whe­re – and wet­lands, but we went a bit fur­ther. From an ele­va­ted per­spec­ti­ve, the views were even bet­ter. The view to the sou­the­ast was towards a wide-open val­ley with a river, lakes and a lot of wet­land are­as. The sun sent a bright beam down onto this land­s­cape of water.

Stun­ning!

Gal­le­ry – Pen­in­su­la Zach – 22 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

Then it star­ted to rain again, and we made sure we were back on board in time for the Piet-show (the dai­ly mas­ter­pie­ces of Piet, our cook).

… by the way: Pen­in­su­la Zach was named after Franz von Zach, a Hun­ga­ri­an astro­no­mer who joi­ned the famous Bea­gle with Cap­tain Fitz­roy on the first expe­di­ti­on, from 1831 to 1836 (Dar­win was on the second expe­di­ti­on).

Dolphins, Peninsula Zach

Dol­phins accom­pa­nied us on our way into the bay of Pen­in­su­la Zach

Isla Hose – 21 March 2018

Calm night, well shel­te­red? For­get about it … that works well as long as the anchor is hol­ding, but once the wind starts blowing stron­gly from the wrong direc­tion and the anchor is drag­ging, you sud­den­ly find yourself at ungod­ly ear­ly times undo­ing shore­li­nes from trees on steep, slip­pe­ry shores in the darkness and so on. Well, some time later the anchor – both of them, to be pre­cise – went down in the midd­le of the lar­ger bay, and ever­ything was fine again. Back to bed for ano­t­her litt­le while.

Isla Hose

View from Isla Hose over the Pata­go­ni­an archi­pe­la­go

A win­dy day, which kept us insi­de the bay in Isla Hose, enjoy­ing life on board and later making some walk on the island. For some of us who had an uncon­trol­led out­break of moti­va­ti­on for hiking it tur­ned out to be a good bit of a walk, fol­lowing a cou­p­le of hill­tops, cros­sing small wet­lands, very den­se forests and steep slo­pes. Good fun!

Isla Hose

A walk through den­se forests on Isla Hose

Gal­le­ry – Isla Hose – 21 March 2018

Click on thumb­nail to open an enlar­ged ver­si­on of the spe­ci­fic pho­to.

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